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  1. #31

    Default Re: Sandalwood and Patchouli

    If you dislike the dirtier aspects of Patchouli root EO, in addition to Clearwood & other fractions, you may want to give Patchouli Leaf EO a try. It's a cleaner, greener, brighter Patchouli nuance instead of the darker, mustier root.

    Also for your other natural EOs (like clary sage & Nutmeg)...you should dilute those to at least 10% before you can even really smell them to work with. If they are already diluted then it may be an issue with the quality...or you just might not like those particular materials. It's especially helpful to dilute if your formulas are small scale


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    Darren Alan
    www.darrenalan.com

  2. #32

    Default Re: Sandalwood and Patchouli

    Quote Originally Posted by FleetingDream View Post
    Yeah, I see. So is it misleading? Because I did expect to get Sandalwood, not Amyris specially since the kit description (https://shop.perfumersapprentice.com...ery-kit-2.aspx) doesn't say it's Amyris but rather just Sandalwood. What do you do with materials you don't like when you source from different sources? Throw them away?
    Yep. They say that you are getting SANDALWOOD in that kit. They substituted Amyris oil instead. Welcome to the party...here we go again....


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Darren Alan
    www.darrenalan.com

  3. #33

    Default Re: Sandalwood and Patchouli

    Quote Originally Posted by Darren Alan View Post
    If you dislike the dirtier aspects of Patchouli root EO, in addition to Clearwood & other fractions, you may want to give Patchouli Leaf EO a try. It's a cleaner, greener, brighter Patchouli nuance instead of the darker, mustier root.

    Also for your other natural EOs (like clary sage & Nutmeg)...you should dilute those to at least 10% before you can even really smell them to work with. If they are already diluted then it may be an issue with the quality...or you just might not like those particular materials. It's especially helpful to dilute if your formulas are small scale


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Oh, I have diluted everything I work with into a seperate bottle at 10% (or lower for more tenacious smells, like vetiver and cedarwood at 1%) just so it's easier to work with while keeping the original at full concentration for later use. Those oils smell nasty to me. I guess I'll try another source for that and compare. Thank you for the suggestion! I am a beginner, so the more nuanced smells are lost on me. I am struggling as is with just creating a simple base accord with what I've got, let alone grasp the delicacies of scents. I still have a long road ahead of me to create a personal perfume that does not induce involuntary vomitting haha.

    Quote Originally Posted by Darren Alan View Post
    Yep. They say that you are getting SANDALWOOD in that kit. They substituted Amyris oil instead. Welcome to the party...here we go again....


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Haha, somehow, I don't like this party already!

  4. #34

    Default Re: Sandalwood and Patchouli

    You will at Perfumer Suppy House and Eden Botanicals, I think.

  5. #35

    Default Re: Sandalwood and Patchouli

    Also Liberty Naturals has always been a dependable source for naturals for me


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Darren Alan
    www.darrenalan.com

  6. #36

    Default Re: Sandalwood and Patchouli

    For me as well. I didn't mention above only because of the minimum order, which actually is not much ($50).

  7. #37
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    Default Re: Sandalwood and Patchouli

    Before I even knew about perfume, I started buying Eden botanicals samples-and I started educating myself. The amount of naturals in formulas are huge even now, and the amount of precision when listing , is huge too- so it must be a big factor in composing- so aged patchouli vs light patchouli vs patchouli abs etc - makes a difference.
    Well I canít get everything, but I can get small amounts of everything that is offered to me, and start making decisions based on availability, price and repeatability.
    I think pa is taking advantage of the secrecy and lack of transparency that pervades the perfume world, it is the prevailing culture to not be transparent, so most might even find it part of the allure.
    We are in a fairly weak spot : very few vendors for small amounts ; no transparency in the industry , so protocols are unknown; no books, no real instructors . So the standards are weak , so it is really important , even though it is really repetitive, to state what we do know, and who we do trust.
    I have so many gorgeous natural materials, and without even making a perfume , I am quite content to explore their attributes, for their own worth. Having those materials made it clear to me that there is a standard- often what one is willing to pay determines the outcome, but sometimes by happy accident. Sometimes I have paid for nothing- and some of these might not be easy to put in perfume.
    Someone posted a couple of additional url s on a article on smell I put up. There were many links to additional studies, and one made mention that certain aromas use the same path ways as emotions in our brains. Emotions apparently are harder to define,- but I feel emotions when I smell certain naturals( I feel vindicated) and I feel that sourcing something that does something for you is as valid a method as we are going to get , at least with naturals.
    Some acs are either so low in intensity to be hard to perceive on that level; some are so strong , a pleasing dilution has to be found ; some so unpleasant or strange that the purpose has to be taken on faith.
    But naturals , almost all a peasant version can be found- at least thatís my experience, so if a good one is needed, ask here , I am sure someone will have found it before you.

  8. #38

    Default Re: Sandalwood and Patchouli

    Quote Originally Posted by Jolieo View Post
    Before I even knew about perfume, I started buying Eden botanicals samples-and I started educating myself. The amount of naturals in formulas are huge even now, and the amount of precision when listing , is huge too- so it must be a big factor in composing- so aged patchouli vs light patchouli vs patchouli abs etc - makes a difference.
    Well I canít get everything, but I can get small amounts of everything that is offered to me, and start making decisions based on availability, price and repeatability.
    I think pa is taking advantage of the secrecy and lack of transparency that pervades the perfume world, it is the prevailing culture to not be transparent, so most might even find it part of the allure.
    We are in a fairly weak spot : very few vendors for small amounts ; no transparency in the industry , so protocols are unknown; no books, no real instructors . So the standards are weak , so it is really important , even though it is really repetitive, to state what we do know, and who we do trust.
    I have so many gorgeous natural materials, and without even making a perfume , I am quite content to explore their attributes, for their own worth. Having those materials made it clear to me that there is a standard- often what one is willing to pay determines the outcome, but sometimes by happy accident. Sometimes I have paid for nothing- and some of these might not be easy to put in perfume.
    Someone posted a couple of additional url s on a article on smell I put up. There were many links to additional studies, and one made mention that certain aromas use the same path ways as emotions in our brains. Emotions apparently are harder to define,- but I feel emotions when I smell certain naturals( I feel vindicated) and I feel that sourcing something that does something for you is as valid a method as we are going to get , at least with naturals.
    Some acs are either so low in intensity to be hard to perceive on that level; some are so strong , a pleasing dilution has to be found ; some so unpleasant or strange that the purpose has to be taken on faith.
    But naturals , almost all a peasant version can be found- at least thatís my experience, so if a good one is needed, ask here , I am sure someone will have found it before you.
    Beautifully put! I share your sentiments entirely!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Darren Alan
    www.darrenalan.com

  9. #39

    Default Re: Sandalwood and Patchouli

    Quote Originally Posted by FleetingDream View Post
    I've been trying to get to know my materials so I've seen around that sandalwood and patchouli go together well.
    I've been thinking about this, and I think it's because patchouli can substitute for some of the deepness that's lacking in most synthetic sandalwood molecules.

    Usually in artificial sandalwood accords they have to add Sandela (sandal cyclohexanol) to add a deepness to it, but patchouli may be able to partially, or maybe even entirely, substitute for that.
    If you take a look at the molecular structure, they all have cages (santalol, sandela, patchoulol).

  10. #40

    Default Re: Sandalwood and Patchouli

    I recently picked up some Amyris. It's a nice, subtle woody blender.

    For sandalwood itself as a note, I have largely avoided this so far due to the overwhelming number of aromachems involved. I do have the Firmenich Mysore wood base, which smells really nice, but very 'perfumey' as opposed to natural. Does anyone know how this compares to the natural?

    I have clearwood and get a weird kind of bitter stagnant water aspect, but it works well with oakmoss materials. I also found that it made an interesting accord with ambrettolide.
    Andy




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