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  1. #1

    Question Opening "generic" fruity note in Dior Sauvage? (2015)

    Hey guys! I've recieved a free sample of Dior Sauvage so I tried it out of course, not my cup of tea (especially those annoying harsh super ambers that really stick out on my skin) but I did enjoy the first few notes.
    Now after a lot of research I managed understand some of the fragrance but I'm still missing that top note that really reminds me of a perfume shop. It's quite fruity but very clean, the clean part probably from the massive cetalox dose. I also know there's a lot of musks like galaxolide, tonalide, habanolide.. and a lot of bergamot and possibly peppers, but there's definitely something I don't have that I recognise in a lot of modern perfumes (not DHM). I'm wondering if it's not Alpha Damascone (which I don't have yet, only Beta and Damascenone Total). Normally I'd just buy it but unfortunately Hekserij and Quosentis are both closed for summer vacation so I have to wait a while before buying some, so I'm a bit frustrated
    Other things that are possibly in this fragrance (that I don't have) are: laevo carvone, veloutone, peonile, precyclemone B and coranol (yep it's a lot), would one of these maybe contribute to this opening? If I remember another fragrance that has this smell I'll make sure to mention it, but Sauvage really gives me flashbacks of airport perfume stores for some reason!
    I plan of course on giving my few formulas once I get something decent to give back, but I hope it'll be worth sharing. Thanks guys!!

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Opening "generic" fruity note in Dior Sauvage? (2015)

    Hedione?

  3. #3
    Super Member Lisieux's Avatar
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    Default Re: Opening "generic" fruity note in Dior Sauvage? (2015)

    Some top notes it contains are; Manzanate, Amarocite (methyl pamplemousse), Neryl Acetate, para cymene, and of course bergamot (and a lot of it). I find the Manzanate really pops out. But it could be any of those combined with any other materials that give you that 'perfume shop' impression. It also contains phenyl ethyl acetate, citronellol, Limonene D, and others in the top. Not sure if that really answers your query but it might help a little.
    Last edited by Lisieux; 26th July 2021 at 01:20 PM. Reason: punctuation
    Jamie O'Brien

  4. #4

    Default Re: Opening "generic" fruity note in Dior Sauvage? (2015)

    Quote Originally Posted by jameshillier View Post
    Hedione?
    I do recognise it but it's more "pink" and fruity in a way, but thanks for your suggestion!

  5. #5

    Default Re: Opening "generic" fruity note in Dior Sauvage? (2015)

    Quote Originally Posted by Lisieux View Post
    Some top notes it contains are; Manzanate, Amarocite (methyl pamplemousse), Neryl Acetate, para cymene, and of course bergamot (and a lot of it). I find the Manzanate really pops out. But it could be any of those combined with any other materials that give you that 'perfume shop' impression. It also contains phenyl ethyl acetate, citronellol, Limonene D, and others in the top. Not sure if that really answers your query but it might help a little.
    Helps a lot for those suggestions! I also have Manzanate on hold until the stores re-open so looking forward to that one, might be a combination of alpha damascone and manzanate since I don't have either of them.. Thanks a lot!

  6. #6

    Default Re: Opening "generic" fruity note in Dior Sauvage? (2015)

    Thanks to a VERY generous member of this board (I won't name him so he doesn't get spammed with requests) I got a bit of Alpha Damascone and it's exactly what I was smelling!
    Wow that thing is strong and very fresh and fruity, love it. Some similarities with the other damascones but this one is much more "apple" almost like sticking your nose on top of a very strong bubbly apple cider. Definitely a must buy

  7. #7

    Default Re: Opening "generic" fruity note in Dior Sauvage? (2015)

    Manzanate is the main note for me. But, i don't know what amount is. May be isoananat or some type of galbanum (amyl allyl glycolate, dinascone..)

  8. #8
    Super Member Lisieux's Avatar
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    Default Re: Opening "generic" fruity note in Dior Sauvage? (2015)

    Quote Originally Posted by Stefan.E View Post
    Thanks to a VERY generous member of this board (I won't name him so he doesn't get spammed with requests) I got a bit of Alpha Damascone and it's exactly what I was smelling!
    Wow that thing is strong and very fresh and fruity, love it. Some similarities with the other damascones but this one is much more "apple" almost like sticking your nose on top of a very strong bubbly apple cider. Definitely a must buy
    Oh yes, Alpha Damascone. VERY powerful stuff and will overrun your formula easily if dosed just a little bit too high. Usually it's considered a middle note but because of its high odor strength and volatility I can absolutely see it being detected in the top. But on the other hand, I didn't know Sauvage contained it. I don't detect it at all. Different people. Different olfactory abilities I suppose.
    Jamie O'Brien

  9. #9

    Default Re: Opening "generic" fruity note in Dior Sauvage? (2015)

    Quote Originally Posted by Lisieux View Post
    Oh yes, Alpha Damascone. VERY powerful stuff and will overrun your formula easily if dosed just a little bit too high. Usually it's considered a middle note but because of its high odor strength and volatility I can absolutely see it being detected in the top. But on the other hand, I didn't know Sauvage contained it. I don't detect it at all. Different people. Different olfactory abilities I suppose.
    Indeed it's very powerful! And I hope I'm not wrong, maybe I'm saying rubbish or I smell something similar, but to me I really smell bergamote, alpha damascone and some very strong ambrox-ish smell right away.

  10. #10
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    Default Re: Opening "generic" fruity note in Dior Sauvage? (2015)

    You can consider any or all of these, Fruity, and useful to build a Sauvage type scent:
    Manzanate
    Bergamot
    Sichuan Pepper CO2 Robertet
    methyl pamplemousse
    Elemi EO

    No Damascones showed up in the cheap low res PA GCMS that I had done of Sauvage original issue.

  11. #11

    Default Re: Opening "generic" fruity note in Dior Sauvage? (2015)

    I don't find the ambers in Sauvage to be super sharp, it's mostly the pepper that gives it the opening kick.

    As for the fruitiness, it's hard to tell where exactly the floral and hesperidic notes end and the fruity ones begin. I'd consider verdox, manzanate, methyl pamp and the damascones along with hedione to isolate the Sauvage fruitiness. But bergamot and other citrus/floral materials play a big part in giving a cooling contrast to this aspect of the fragrance.

  12. #12

    Default Re: Opening "generic" fruity note in Dior Sauvage? (2015)

    Quote Originally Posted by pkiler View Post
    You can consider any or all of these, Fruity, and useful to build a Sauvage type scent:
    Manzanate
    Bergamot
    Sichuan Pepper CO2 Robertet
    methyl pamplemousse
    Elemi EO

    No Damascones showed up in the cheap low res PA GCMS that I had done of Sauvage original issue.
    Thanks for those suggestions!! Then I might be wrong about the alpha damascone, but I still really enjoy the smell! Perhaps manzanate is also one of the contributing factors. The only one I don't have is the Sichuan CO2, I'll try to find a seller.. Does it have any particularity compared to say black or pink pepper EO?

  13. #13

    Default Re: Opening "generic" fruity note in Dior Sauvage? (2015)

    Quote Originally Posted by CuriousBeginner View Post
    I don't find the ambers in Sauvage to be super sharp, it's mostly the pepper that gives it the opening kick.

    As for the fruitiness, it's hard to tell where exactly the floral and hesperidic notes end and the fruity ones begin. I'd consider verdox, manzanate, methyl pamp and the damascones along with hedione to isolate the Sauvage fruitiness. But bergamot and other citrus/floral materials play a big part in giving a cooling contrast to this aspect of the fragrance.
    Thank you! I really love bergamot and definitely smell a BIG amount along with hedione, and I smell the green twist to it that verdox can bring (or even liffarome maybe) and methyl pamplemousse for that bitter zesty smell too. I have not smelled manzanate yet but it's on its way, maybe it's also similar to alpha damascone? I'll be sure to say once I get it. It's definitely some toppy modifier to the bergamot giving it a nice extra kick and fruitiness, but I'm sure it's the blend of all the parts that work together (as intended)

  14. #14
    Super Member Lisieux's Avatar
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    Default Re: Opening "generic" fruity note in Dior Sauvage? (2015)

    Quote Originally Posted by Stefan.E View Post
    Thanks for those suggestions!! Then I might be wrong about the alpha damascone, but I still really enjoy the smell! Perhaps manzanate is also one of the contributing factors. The only one I don't have is the Sichuan CO2, I'll try to find a seller.. Does it have any particularity compared to say black or pink pepper EO?
    I would say black pepper smells just like the table-top condiment - i.e. sharp, woody, spicy. I don't find a vegetative quality to black pepper. While sichuan CO2 smells like a sliced 'hot pepper', i.e. zesty, vegetative, metallic and hot. But if you have only black pepper and/or pink pepper, go ahead and try them. You might like the result!
    Jamie O'Brien

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    Default Re: Opening "generic" fruity note in Dior Sauvage? (2015)

    Quote Originally Posted by Stefan.E View Post
    Thanks for those suggestions!! Then I might be wrong about the alpha damascone, but I still really enjoy the smell! Perhaps manzanate is also one of the contributing factors. The only one I don't have is the Sichuan CO2, I'll try to find a seller.. Does it have any particularity compared to say black or pink pepper EO?
    The Sichuan Pepper is quite different from black or pink pepper. It has a fruity bit, plus a trigeminal effect that is very difficult to replicate.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Opening "generic" fruity note in Dior Sauvage? (2015)

    Thanks for all the advice guys, seems like Sichuan pepper co2 is next on my shopping list!

  17. #17

    Default Re: Opening "generic" fruity note in Dior Sauvage? (2015)

    After lots of testing I made something basic but that I really enjoy! I'll post the formula soon (but I didn't have a scale on me so it's in drops, really sorry about that - if I have the time I'll re-do the formula but convert it to weight as I do it)

    What gave me the perfume shop smell was not only the classic Bergamot Hedione + Musks, but also a mix of IBQ, Heliotropex and Norlimbanol (all three are present in a lot of perfumes I imagine)
    The fruity part was indeed Manzanate + Bergamot + Elemi (just got Manzanate and that stuff is strong too). The alpha damascone was not necessary but I like it anyways! Also adding raspberry ketone and melonal brought it closer to what I wanted.
    Since I didn't have Sichuan CO2 I used styrallyl acetate because it gives me the same "sliced chili pepper" smell like Lisieux said, I immediately thought of this from the description. It might not be the same as Sauvage but I just wanted to make something I liked, not clone the perfume anyways!

    Thanks again for all of you and your help, I hope the formula will be a fun little project for some of you, it might be basic but it smells nice to me

    EDIT: after comparing with and without coranol+precyclemone b, those two absolutely contribute to the fresh "juicy clean" smell I like in Sauvage
    Last edited by Stefan.E; 6th August 2021 at 05:36 PM.

  18. #18

    Default Re: Opening "generic" fruity note in Dior Sauvage? (2015)

    I accidentally put some Spikenard in a mixture with vetiver, geranium and lavender and it turned out very similar to the new Sauvage.

  19. #19

    Default Re: Opening "generic" fruity note in Dior Sauvage? (2015)

    Quote Originally Posted by birdie View Post
    I accidentally put some Spikenard in a mixture with vetiver, geranium and lavender and it turned out very similar to the new Sauvage.
    Interesting, never smelled Spikenard before




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