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  1. #1
    Dependent jkonick's Avatar
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    Default ELdO Hermann a Mes Cotes - Geosmin at its Finest

    As my collection has grown over the last few years and I’ve smelled more and more fragrances, I’ve had an experience familiar to many I’m sure: what at first seemed like novel or exciting notes eventually become pedestrian after enough encounters, even boring or off-putting. The first time I smelled geosmin was in Demeter Dirt, and I was blown away by the earth smell, which really is accurate, and is also incredibly potent. I ended up smelling more geosmin frags and the aroma chemical itself (I bought a tiny vial), and started to realize that most geosmin fragrances are basically just geosmin - or if they aren’t, the material itself is so potent that it just overpowers everything.

    But ELdO seems to have found a combination of aroma chemicals that can stand up to, and even sing beautifully with the indelibly earthy beast that is geosmin: calypsone and ambroxan. As they say, “with our powers combined…” these three different but powerful chemicals work together alongside some more natural notes like black currant, vetiver, etc, to create a unique and abstract impression of cool, wet, earthiness, but also a kind of neon-glowing purple-turquoise effect. This synesthesthetic impression is bolstered by the fact that it immediately calls to mind the blueberry Mr. Sketch markers, which kids of a certain generation will be intimately familiar with, and I spent a lot of my early 90s childhood smelling more often than drawing with them.

    It won’t be for everyone, and it does smell synthetic but well-blended. If you feel like you’ve seen all that geosmin can do, or you’re just looking for some marker-huffing nostalgia, give this one a try.
    “I have often observed that [scents] cause an alteration in me and work upon my spirits according to their several virtues; which makes me approve of what is said, that the use of incense and perfumes in churches, so ancient and so universally received in all nations and religions, was intended to cheer us, and to rouse and purify the senses, the better to fit us for contemplation” - Montaigne
    Currently wearing: Greyland by Montale

  2. #2
    hednic's Avatar
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    Default Re: ELdO Hermann a Mes Cotes - Geosmin at its Finest

    It's a wonderful fragrance and glad I have a bottle of it.
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  3. #3
    Basenotes Institution freewheelingvagabond's Avatar
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    Default Re: ELdO Hermann a Mes Cotes - Geosmin at its Finest

    Very interesting. I haven't tried any of those, but I looked up geosmin, most online notes link it to petrichor (which I guess all are familiar with), and which IMO is similar to some earthy vetiver accords. Interestingly Demeter has a separate perfume called Petrichor, would be interesting to smell it side by side with Dirt.
    That ELdO is on my to-try list together with Attaquer and Afternoon.
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  4. #4

    Default Re: ELdO Hermann a Mes Cotes - Geosmin at its Finest

    I find Hermann a truly weird fragrance - but likeable.

    It seems kinda dated also. It defies description for me, there doesn't seem to be an obvious reference point.

  5. #5

    Default Re: ELdO Hermann a Mes Cotes - Geosmin at its Finest

    I agree! Of my ~300 bottles collection, it's one of the most creative and unique fragrances I own. I don't wear it often, but will always keep my 30ml bottle on the side for the days I want to. In a nutshell: it will never enter my top10, but I need it in my life.
    Currently wearing: Vetiver by Guerlain

  6. #6
    Dependent jkonick's Avatar
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    Default Re: ELdO Hermann a Mes Cotes - Geosmin at its Finest

    Quote Originally Posted by freewheelingvagabond View Post
    Very interesting. I haven't tried any of those, but I looked up geosmin, most online notes link it to petrichor (which I guess all are familiar with), and which IMO is similar to some earthy vetiver accords. Interestingly Demeter has a separate perfume called Petrichor, would be interesting to smell it side by side with Dirt.
    That ELdO is on my to-try list together with Attaquer and Afternoon.
    Yeah I think geosmin is in a lot of Petrichor accords. It has that mineral, tangy freshly-tilled earth smell, like moist potting soil. There’s another similar aroma chemical I purchased from Perfumer’s Apprentice, terrasol. I’ve also owned Demeter’s Thunderstorm, which has a similar accord. But once I smelled terrasol and geosmin on their own, I realized that’s basically all that Demeter’s earthy/rain fragrances are. The Dirt one is nice but it’s so strong you can taste it.

    I would say CdG Radish Vetiver has a similar vibe with a lot of geosmin and calone (to which calypsone is closely related), but it comes off more unbalanced. Here’s Givaudan’s marketing copy about Calypsone:

    “Calypsone
    A linear watery melon/watermelon note with citrus, marine, and floral muguet nuances; works well in green floral notes like honeysuckle by giving the green natural freshness; interesting for modern citrus top notes by giving more naturalness without too much juiciness.“


    Quote Originally Posted by Kaern View Post
    I find Hermann a truly weird fragrance - but likeable.

    It seems kinda dated also. It defies description for me, there doesn't seem to be an obvious reference point.
    Hmmm interesting, what comes across as dated about it? I believe you but I’m not sure I see it. The lack of reference point I agree with though - it’s unlike any other aquatic or geosmin or ambroxan scents, even though it’s a mixture of all three. My only real reference, again, is Mr. Sketch markers.

    Quote Originally Posted by Andy the frenchy View Post
    I agree! Of my ~300 bottles collection, it's one of the most creative and unique fragrances I own. I don't wear it often, but will always keep my 30ml bottle on the side for the days I want to. In a nutshell: it will never enter my top10, but I need it in my life.
    Agreed - it’s not gonna get a lot of wear or be anyone’s “daily driver,” but it’s so unique and pleasing that I took the risk of buying a bottle off eBay after fruitlessly hunting for deals elsewhere for months. I originally tried it as part of the Olfactif sample subscription service, probably never would’ve come across it otherwise as there are other ELdO frags I would’ve gone for first (and still want to sample).
    “I have often observed that [scents] cause an alteration in me and work upon my spirits according to their several virtues; which makes me approve of what is said, that the use of incense and perfumes in churches, so ancient and so universally received in all nations and religions, was intended to cheer us, and to rouse and purify the senses, the better to fit us for contemplation” - Montaigne
    Currently wearing: Greyland by Montale

  7. #7
    Basenotes Junkie Ed Wardian's Avatar
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    Default Re: ELdO Hermann a Mes Cotes - Geosmin at its Finest

    I find Hermann to be a distinct offering which collectively breathes a green patina pepper accord that is cool, damp and evocative. It's almost like rose stems covered in wet, crystallized soil with storm clouds hovering. The marker inkiness is probably emanating from patchouli, vetiver, ambroxan base which is beautifully soothing. Certainly, I have to agree with you regarding how geosmin is cleverly used here and as a textured note in this one. One lovely impression indeed and a fitting scent for either Pacific Northwest or Atlantic Northeast!




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