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  1. #1

    Default Long time listener, first time caller, asking for advice re Jicky

    Hi all! Iím kind of new hereÖ.Iíve been wearing scent since I was in high school in the 80s, but have only recently begun to obsess over it and read about it the same way I do foos and wine.

    As part of my education in the classics, I tried a sample of vintage Jicky EDT (I think from the 50s) from the perfumed court, and really really reallyy liked it a lot. It doesnít smell like poo to me, but perhaps thatís because itís edt and is hence less poo-like? I am interested in buying an actual bottle, but since this is all going to be online, I am hoping to get some adviceÖ should I risk shelling out for vintage edt on eBay, which will be newer (90s, I am guessing), or edp (from a similar era), or is it worth trying the current generation? I canít go sniff anything in a store, which sucks. I read and read and read reviews, and canít decide whether itís worth splurging on the eBay blind buys, whether the new juice is worth it or is vile cat vomit, etc.

    If I could afford (and could find) a bottle of the 50s EDT I would go to town on it, but alas, not an option.

    Thanks, for this and also for generally providing me with such delightful fodder for my latest obsession.

  2. #2

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    Default Re: Long time listener, first time caller, asking for advice re Jicky

    Welcome!

    Buying vintage is tricky because the probability of some type of degradation is high and the prices for classics of Guerlain and Chanel is very high. And there is really no way to know whether a perfume is ok or not-it's not something one can see from a photo. So I think it's best to do it after getting more experience and learning more. I personally don't buy stuff that's above $100 (with a few exceptions) for this reason.

    The current Jicky is less dirty and and has less of a wow factor than vintage. But I'd say it is still acceptable within these limits. I bought a parfum concentration and was a bit disappointed, perhaps because in parfum the lack of certain ingredients is more evident. So rather than the parfum, I'd go for a lower concentration (does an edt still exist).

    cacio

  3. #3

    Default Re: Long time listener, first time caller, asking for advice re Jicky

    Thank you! I’ve really been hesitating. I agree, there is a huge risk of getting a pig in a poke. I’ve seen vintage EDP for ~$150, and vintage EDT for a little less. I’ve hovered my finger over the Buy it Now button several times but it does seem nuts.
    Based on this, would you go for the modern edt? I think it exists. ;-)

  4. #4

    Default Re: Long time listener, first time caller, asking for advice re Jicky

    Thank you! Iíve really been hesitating. I agree, there is a huge risk of getting a pig in a poke. Iíve seen vintage EDP for ~$150, and vintage EDT for a little less. Iíve hovered my finger over the Buy it Now button several times but it does seem nuts.
    Based on this, would you go for the modern edt? I really wish I could find it in a shop, to sniff in person.

  5. #5

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    Default Re: Long time listener, first time caller, asking for advice re Jicky

    Maybe look for the PdT if you can?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. #6

    Default Re: Long time listener, first time caller, asking for advice re Jicky

    The PDT concentration is excellent. It was produced during the 1980s and 1990s. Jicky extrait is also good.

    One individual that you could reach out to is Strikeknot. He does host splits including a number Guerlain vintage fragrances
    https://www.basenotes.net/threads/46...RNP?highlight=
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  7. #7
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    Default Re: Long time listener, first time caller, asking for advice re Jicky

    Hi Fermata—

    Welcome to the Vintage Forum! I hope you will post often!

    Vintage perfume collecting is a hobby that follows its own logic. It may not make much sense to others. You and I both know that you can get a perfectly nice sealed bee bottle of Jicky at a reasonable price, and it will be a nice perfume. But...you are curious.

    Speaking for myself, I don’t feel there are huge risks involved in buying vintage, but I stick to my own rules. I buy vintage because I want to learn about great classic perfumes. There are plenty of wonderful perfumes out there so there is no need to get stressed out over perfumes! I buy bottles in the best state of preservation that I can find, and I avoid half full bottles and darkened perfume. I spend only what I am willing to lose without much regret. Sometimes hundreds on the right bottle, but usually much less.

    It’s up to you to decide how you want to proceed. Perhaps you can try the recent Jicky just to see what you think of it? (I see sealed testers are around at very reasonable prices.) If you ultimately decide that vintage Jicky is your holy grail, then shop patiently and when you see the right vintage bottle for the right price, go for it.

    What other vintage perfumes do you like?
    Currently wearing: Eau de Rochas by Rochas

  8. #8

    Default Re: Long time listener, first time caller, asking for advice re Jicky

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    ....Perhaps you can try the recent Jicky just to see what you think of it? (I see sealed testers are around at very reasonable prices.)....
    This ^^^^^^^^^^

    I rather like the current Jicky EdP.

  9. #9

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    Default Re: Long time listener, first time caller, asking for advice re Jicky

    I concur with grayspoole's idea that for vintage one should only spend what one is willing to loose without much regret.

  10. #10

    Default Re: Long time listener, first time caller, asking for advice re Jicky

    Quote Originally Posted by zr0e View Post
    Maybe look for the PdT if you can?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Thanks! I will keep my eyes open for that. I confess to only just recently having learned there was such a thing as that!

  11. #11

    Default Re: Long time listener, first time caller, asking for advice re Jicky

    Quote Originally Posted by N.CAL Fragrance Reviewer View Post
    The PDT concentration is excellent. It was produced during the 1980s and 1990s. Jicky extrait is also good.

    One individual that you could reach out to is Strikeknot. He does host splits including a number Guerlain vintage fragrances
    https://www.basenotes.net/threads/46...RNP?highlight=
    Wonderful… thanks. I haven’t bought any splits yet!

  12. #12

    Default Re: Long time listener, first time caller, asking for advice re Jicky

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Hi Fermata—

    Welcome to the Vintage Forum! I hope you will post often!

    Vintage perfume collecting is a hobby that follows its own logic. It may not make much sense to others. You and I both know that you can get a perfectly nice sealed bee bottle of Jicky at a reasonable price, and it will be a nice perfume. But...you are curious.

    Speaking for myself, I don’t feel there are huge risks involved in buying vintage, but I stick to my own rules. I buy vintage because I want to learn about great classic perfumes. There are plenty of wonderful perfumes out there so there is no need to get stressed out over perfumes! I buy bottles in the best state of preservation that I can find, and I avoid half full bottles and darkened perfume. I spend only what I am willing to lose without much regret. Sometimes hundreds on the right bottle, but usually much less.

    It’s up to you to decide how you want to proceed. Perhaps you can try the recent Jicky just to see what you think of it? (I see sealed testers are around at very reasonable prices.) If you ultimately decide that vintage Jicky is your holy grail, then shop patiently and when you see the right vintage bottle for the right price, go for it.

    What other vintage perfumes do you like?
    I guess it depends on how you define vintage, because for some of my favorites, I am not really sure what havoc has been wreaked by reformulation, or what differences in concentration.

    For example, I loved, and love, Annick Goutal’s Eau de Hadrien, and I have worn it for years. My last bottle is from the early aughts, I think, and is running low. I would love to do a side by side comparison with the newest incarnation (which I haven’t tried), AND with the one I had back in the early 90s (which I no longer have), because I’m curious. I’ve heard it’s changed. I don’t know whether my nose is skilled enough to detect more than a basic “same / not-same”, especially when not doing a side by side test!

    So far the only vintage bottles I’ve bought are Quelques Fleurs (parfum, 90s). I knew a woman who wore QF in the 80s and she smelled amazing - the kind of scent that made you want to cross a room to talk to her. I never knew anything other than the name, but I can’t imagine she had a budget for pure perfume, In the mid 90s I’d bought a bottle of the EdP and I’ve kept it since, barely worn. I’ve always wanted to love it, but it’s a huge floral blast (this is not usually my genre!) and has hints of what I loved, in the drydown, but was never quite right. On a whim I bought a little flacon of QF parfum off eBay and BANG ZOOM. Perfection. I don’t know that it’s what she wore - but it takes me right back there, in a way that the (also now vintage) EdP I already own, has never done. I loved it so much I immediately scouted out and bought another.

    I loved Cristalle in the 80s - a girl I knew in high school wore it, and I loved it and asked her what it was … I think it’s probably the first Fancy Grownup scent I ever bought. I can’t remember whether my first was an EdT, but the one I have now, and which is running low, is an EdP. I have been looking for a (new) EdT but it is incredibly hard to find. I have one on backorder directly with Chanel — I’ve been assured by them that it has not been discontinued.

    I don’t mind throwing a little gambling money out there on a vintage (or even a blind buy of something new). I don’t play the ponies or the stock market or anything, so it seems like a fairly innocent habit. So far there have only been a few duds (whether vintage or new). I suppose I ought to learn how to sell the ones I don’t like, but I am so so lazy.

    I guess my Q about Jicky is really more of the “what kind….” as in, given that I liked the 50s EdP, and do not especially love poo, if I were to buy vintage, am I more likely to like the EdT, or EdP (haven’t yet found a PdT). OR if I were to go for brand new … EdP or EdT ?

  13. #13
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    Default Re: Long time listener, first time caller, asking for advice re Jicky

    Quote Originally Posted by Fermata
    I guess my Q about Jicky is really more of the “what kind….” as in, given that I liked the 50s EdP, and do not especially love poo, if I were to buy vintage, am I more likely to like the EdT, or EdP (haven’t yet found a PdT). OR if I were to go for brand new … EdP or EdT ?
    Hello again—

    I’m going to reflect on your notes regarding the vintages you enjoy, and get back to you.

    Re: Jicky

    Based on what I see on the Perfumed Court’s website, it looks like you tested a 1950’s EDT, and I’m sure it was good. You would probably enjoy any vintage EDT up to the 1990’s.

    The vintage Guerlain parfums de toilette (PDT) date to the 1980’s. I’ve never tried vintage Jicky in this formulation, but I bet it’s good too. The vintage Guerlain PDT’s are not so easy to find, unfortunately.

    The EDP is a modern formulation, and, as I said, I see sealed 100 ml tester bottles for $40. These seem worth a try. Recent Guerlain perfumes seem to be thinner than the vintage ones so I would probably opt for the modern EDP over the modern EDT.

    Do not rule out a good bottle of vintage Eau de Cologne, if you can find one. Vintage Guerlain EDC’s are wonderful. A good vintage EDC can be richer and more nuanced than a modern EDP. I adore vintage Guerlain EDC’s in the “montre” bottles like this.

    E08E2B0F-D1FD-4E58-BA5D-3125F93C17E0.jpeg

    Have you found the Raiders of the Lost Scent blog? If you are shopping for vintage Guerlain, you must read these...

    http://raidersofthelostscent.blogspo...-perfumes.html

    http://raidersofthelostscent.blogspo...-stickers.html

    I know Dr. T is a lover of Jicky (I am not, unfortunately). She has been busy fighting the pandemic, but perhaps she or her partner P. Stoller will weigh in too.

    Have fun and good luck!



    Currently wearing: Eau de Rochas by Rochas

  14. #14
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    Default Re: Long time listener, first time caller, asking for advice re Jicky

    Hi Fermata,

    Following grayspoole’s suggestion, if you do decide to try the modern EDP, there is also a Dutch eBayer selling 5ml decants for quite a reasonable price. It looks like they ship worldwide except Russia.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/274696627274?_ul=CA
    Currently wearing: No. 5 by Chanel

  15. #15

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    Default Re: Long time listener, first time caller, asking for advice re Jicky

    Others have commented about the different version. You should not worry about "poo" with any version, though. yes, there was civet in the old one, but that's not poo, just a bit of animalic warmth.

    Re: Eau d'hadrien, it was a citrus chypre. Oakmoss is the backbone of a chypre, and now it is restricted. So the current one will lack persistence and the base will be different. Cristalle had oakmoss too but I think it survived much better. The edt is crisper and drier, the edp is more floral. If you have the edp and like it, then you can continue with that (I prefer the zing of the edt). I've seen both in Europe, don't know how widespread they are stateside.

  16. #16

    Default Re: Long time listener, first time caller, asking for advice re Jicky

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post


    Hello again—

    I’m going to reflect on your notes regarding the vintages you enjoy, and get back to you.

    Re: Jicky

    Based on what I see on the Perfumed Court’s website, it looks like you tested a 1950’s EDT, and I’m sure it was good. You would probably enjoy any vintage EDT up to the 1990’s.

    The vintage Guerlain parfums de toilette (PDT) date to the 1980’s. I’ve never tried vintage Jicky in this formulation, but I bet it’s good too. The vintage Guerlain PDT’s are not so easy to find, unfortunately.

    The EDP is a modern formulation, and, as I said, I see sealed 100 ml tester bottles for $40. These seem worth a try. Recent Guerlain perfumes seem to be thinner than the vintage ones so I would probably opt for the modern EDP over the modern EDT.

    Do not rule out a good bottle of vintage Eau de Cologne, if you can find one. Vintage Guerlain EDC’s are wonderful. A good vintage EDC can be richer and more nuanced than a modern EDP. I adore vintage Guerlain EDC’s in the “montre” bottles like this.

    E08E2B0F-D1FD-4E58-BA5D-3125F93C17E0.jpeg

    Have you found the Raiders of the Lost Scent blog? If you are shopping for vintage Guerlain, you must read these...

    http://raidersofthelostscent.blogspo...-perfumes.html

    http://raidersofthelostscent.blogspo...-stickers.html

    I know Dr. T is a lover of Jicky (I am not, unfortunately). She has been busy fighting the pandemic, but perhaps she or her partner P. Stoller will weigh in too.

    Have fun and good luck!



    Thank you again! I appreciate yours (and others') thoughtful replies. I'm so glad I found you all in here.

    I ordered some more samples from the perfumed court, figuring I'd try a wider variety of ages & formulations.

    Today I went to a Nieman Marcus and found they had a Guerlain counter - I got to try out a new Jicky parfum, and a whole bunch of other things, which was fun. I love sitting in my house reading about fragrance but there ain't nothin' like doing this all in person...

  17. #17

    Default Re: Long time listener, first time caller, asking for advice re Jicky

    Quote Originally Posted by cacio View Post
    Others have commented about the different version. You should not worry about "poo" with any version, though. yes, there was civet in the old one, but that's not poo, just a bit of animalic warmth.

    Re: Eau d'hadrien, it was a citrus chypre. Oakmoss is the backbone of a chypre, and now it is restricted. So the current one will lack persistence and the base will be different. Cristalle had oakmoss too but I think it survived much better. The edt is crisper and drier, the edp is more floral. If you have the edp and like it, then you can continue with that (I prefer the zing of the edt). I've seen both in Europe, don't know how widespread they are stateside.
    I love the phrase 'animalic warmth' - I think I've been generally wary of things containing civet (real or synthetic), but not due to firsthand experience.

    I have read about the oakmoss and irfa restrictions, and it's a shame. I want the EdT of Cristalle and have had a backorder in with Chanel for about a month now, and am hoping it will show up soon. I think I'll look for an older Eau de Hadrien on ebay. What else would I spend my money on, besides rent and food and other frivolities?

  18. #18

    Default Re: Long time listener, first time caller, asking for advice re Jicky

    Quote Originally Posted by Wingie View Post
    Hi Fermata,

    Following grayspoole’s suggestion, if you do decide to try the modern EDP, there is also a Dutch eBayer selling 5ml decants for quite a reasonable price. It looks like they ship worldwide except Russia.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/274696627274?_ul=CA
    Thank you!

  19. #19
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    Default Re: Long time listener, first time caller, asking for advice re Jicky

    Quote Originally Posted by Fermata View Post
    I ordered some more samples from the perfumed court, figuring I'd try a wider variety of ages & formulations.

    Today I went to a Nieman Marcus and found they had a Guerlain counter - I got to try out a new Jicky parfum...
    Sounds like you had a grand time! What did you think of the current Jicky parfum?
    Currently wearing: Eau de Rochas by Rochas

  20. #20

    Default Re: Long time listener, first time caller, asking for advice re Jicky

    Quote Originally Posted by grayspoole View Post
    Sounds like you had a grand time! What did you think of the current Jicky parfum?
    It was interesting, but I actually prefer the 50s EdT, I think. Not sure how much of that is due to the “this is what it’s supposed to be like” psychological trap we often fall into when we establish a baseline from the first introduction. I will see what it’s like to have the side by side samples. It will be fun.

    I did smell some delicious Neroli Outrenoir while at the Guerlain counter - it was fantastic, although perhaps noir is the wrong word. I want some now. (I hope I don’t get banned for mentioning something new in a vintage forum!)

  21. #21

    Default Re: Long time listener, first time caller, asking for advice re Jicky

    Should the vintage version be unavailable and/or overpriced, tending to agree that current EDP version could still be a viable alternative




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